The Palace...aka New Campus

American University-Cairo new campus opened just last year. It's palatial and a beautiful testiment to Arabic architecture. Which simultaneously makes it a labrynth of offices and classrooms that can take hours to navigate!

Both of my programs are still on the 'old' or downtown campus, which I've yet to photograph. I'm very glad that most of my classes will be at the downtown campus bc its a five minute walk from my apt, whereas downtown is an hour or two bus ride each way.

My Thursday night class, however, is on the New Campus. When I first arrived to class last thursday night, the entire 'palace' glowed beautifully in the desert. It was calm, quite and with a peaceful desert breeze-- a true oasis to Downtown Cairo!

Pics of Cairo...

Arriving in Cairo...the Nile!











Midan Tahrir is the Downtown of Cairo. Consistantly cluttered with crazy, honking traffic. The big building you see is the Arab League.










The salmon pink colored building is the Egyptian Museum. It is HUGE! No labels! No organization. I'm sure it would be amazing, if I knew what it all was!

Zahi Hawas (Secretary General of the Supreme council of Antiquities) says that the next greatest archeological discovery will take place in the basement of the museum!

Sleep.

Going to sleep is the most difficult part of moving. There is nothing I can do but be patient as my body learns to recognize this as “my” bed now.

I’ve slept on a lot of different beds/places. I’m amazed at how the subconscious establishes different levels of physical and psychological comfort levels (aka: how quickly one can fall asleep, how ‘hard’ one sleeps, awareness of dreams etc). In my new bed, my body is most comfortable creating a hypotenuse of the bed- completely diagonal. Am I claiming territory?

Dreams during the first few weeks are always bizarre and vivid: goals scored in orange Tri-City soccer shirts; old neighbors delivering flowers at violin recitals; dance partners from around the world, in one club. For what is my brain searching?

My body starts to process the “stresses” of the day. I lay here, my physical body ready for sleep, yet my mental/emotional body still hyper-responsive and just waiting for the next move. It realizes that the people, heat, Arabic, tasks await it tomorrow. Insha-allah.

One consistent element of going to sleep- no matter where I am, it always ends with just me and my thoughts.

Que suena con los angelitos…
Don’t let the bed bugs bite…
Boa noite…
Ma’is-salaama…

What am I really doing in Cairo?

I’m in Cairo to get my Master’s Degree. Insha'Allah (God willing), in 2-3 years, I’ll have a MA in International Human Rights Law with a diploma in Psycho-social Intervention of Forced Migration Studies…yea, yeah basically what all those pretentious academic titles mean is that I’ll better understand International Law systems, the wonders and loopholes of Human Rights and I’ll be able to better serve migrant groups who are being relocated to other countries. Or to break it down further, I’ll be reading about 40-60 hours a week, then writing papers!

On the side, at least for now, I’ve landed an internship at St. Andrew’s Refugee Center. Looking for volunteer opportunities in a random book about Cairo, the organization sounded interesting so I emailed the contact person and went to just see what services they offer and where I might fit in. The minute upon entering the agency gates, I felt very at home. It was great to see clusters of Sudanese, Somalis, and Ethiopians around the yard! I felt very at home with their huge white tooth smiles- tho I was once again the only white girl! Well, long story short, not long after I met the director of the agency, who very quickly inquired into my background and what made me move to Cairo, she asked me to be part of their legal team! Al-humdililah! I feel super lucky to be able to see and work with the ‘other side’ of the refugee journey. The agency I worked for in Chicago resettled refugees from all over the world and I was part of an amazing team of legal advocates that assisted these people with their immigration papers. Now, in Cairo, I’ll be assisting refugees- mostly Iraqis- apply for resettlement to the States. I’m very intrigued to see what issues arise on this side of the ocean/process, but more so, with contacts still in Chicago, I hope to be able to provide more information of the realities they will face in the U.S.

Then on top of that, the Director of my diploma program at AUC initiated a partnership between Unicef and St. Andrews to bring in a team of psycho-social specialists (basically psychologists/social workers trained in trauma issues and intervention for individuals from community based cultures. The US is very individualistic so specialists can assist at the individual level. Specialists who work with people who live in community based societies, or societies where family networks/reputations/etc take priority over the individual, need to consider not only the individual but where and how that individual fits into the bigger social picture.) So, not only will I be assisting with refugee applications to the UNHCR but as the program w/ Unicef develops I’ll be interning for both of my programs at the same time! Al-humdililah!

So, school is 40-60 hours a week, internship 20 hours requirement (but social services always demand more!)… I hope I will know someone who wins the lottery and is willing to share with me otherwise a part time job is really going to overload my week!

Me and Ramadan in Egypt

Prior to coming to Egypt I recognized that I would be arriving at the very beginning of a month of fasting, Ramadan. According to Wikipedia, during which time the Muslim world “refrains from eating, drinking, smoking, and indulging in anything that is in excess or ill-natured; from dawn until sunset. Fasting is meant to teach the Muslim patience, modesty and spirituality. Ramadan is a time for Muslims to fast for the sake of Allah, and to offer more prayer than usual. Muslims ask forgiveness for past sins, pray for guidance and help in refraining from everyday evils, and try to purify themselves through self-restraint and good deeds.” My 6 month introduction to Islam in Senegal left me very content and comfortable living inside Muslim traditions. I was excited to observe, feel and live in a predominantly Muslim city during this very special season. People warned me that it was “different” to “super annoying”—I thought that impossible and was rather honored to partake. Yes, I know I’m a dork but it excited me.

When I arrived and my body was re-acclimating to the dry heat I felt extremely uncomfortable and even guilty drinking water in public. Nobody else was and it seemed like all Westerners were trying to be respectful of Ramadan restrictions, to the point where I was sick when I got home. You’re probably saying I was being ridiculous to get sick but you trying being the only white girl, by herself, not wearing a headscarf and then drink water in front of people who were also extremely thirsty! Now after two weeks, I’m over my guilt and now can drink when my body demands. Egyptians Muslims might get arrested for breaking fast during the day in public, but I’m not Egyptian nor Muslim.

Another aspect of life that greatly changes during Ramadan is the daily schedules. Office hours at school are until 1:30pm, little street shops are open until 2-3pm so if you don’t have it done by then you must wait until after iftar (breaking of the fast at sundown). Iftar starts between 6-7 depending on the sun’s schedule and the streets are absolutely—and oh so pleasantly—quite. Until about 8pm when all shops re-open and people flood to the streets to smoke sheesha (hookah), drink tea, eat sweets until around mid-night.

Due to these schedules, one must rush, which is a really a joke in Cairo, to get anything done in the morning. Then, for non-Muslims, wait until 8pmish to get anything else done. It also means that all of my night classes which are to normally be from 5-7:30pm are currently 8-10:30pm. After which, each night my roommate and I have gone shopping for towels, general apt items, groceries, the latest Cairien fashion etc and never find ourselves home before 1am!

So really now, almost at the end of Ramadan, lets just say that my sentiments have changed quite a bit. Here are my real questions. How is it a fast if there is a huge meal served around 6:30pm, another one at mid-night and another one just before sunrise? Isn’t that just a change in schedules? How is it a real sacrifice when the government changed the clocks back this year to make iftar an hour earlier? After talking to some Egyptians females who say that Eid (the break of Ramadan) and the days to follow have the highest incidents of sexual harassment and sexual violence because un-married men have been celibate the entire month, can they really say they are cleansed after the month? Perhaps, “built up” is better!

I guess it’s somewhat comparable to Catholics in the US during Lent. Status-quo Catholic in US: “Yes, Jesus suffered and died to save my sins. I’m going to give up Diet Coke. Except for Sundays!”

I realize that these are stereotypes and generalizations—but they are based in reality. Really, I’m not trying to offend anyone (I apologize if I did). I’m once again in a unique position with “new culture eyes” that allow me to questions many things about a culture I don’t yet understand. I’m trying to question and not judge. So at the same time, to be fair, I must also question who I am, what I do and why I do it. Ramadan has been an interesting experience. I’m intrigued to see how I’ll feel about it next year, once I better understand the language, the people and have seen life in Cairo w/o Ramadan interruptions.

Adjusted

I’ve now lived in my apartment for 1 whole week. I have been in Cairo for just over 2. For some reason, it feels much, much longer than two weeks. I’m not sure if that means time is moving slowly or quickly. Perhaps, because the learning curve is so high and one must accomplish so much, so quickly, in order to set up a new life in a new country the amount of things I’ve accomplished makes 2 weeks feel absurd. Either way, I feel rather ‘adjusted.’

The transition has not been at all difficult for a number of reasons. One, is the wonderful network of people who agreed to host me the minute I stepped off the plane. Friends of friends of friends of a friend, who are now all of my friends!, have really made this the smoothest transition imaginable. (Insert here background music: “It’s a Small World After All.”) From the grocery story, to the book store, to the metro, to a local British watering hole, they have given me or showed me everything for which I could ask.

The second reason emerges from my other ‘experiences.’ I don’t think I’m capable of feeling awkward anymore. I don’t think I get embarrassed. Sweat doesn’t really bother me anymore. And I know for a fact that I can navigate a city and new cultures, by myself, with only hand/sign/body language!

Another reason is the amount of comfort or recognizable objects available- which make anybody feel more at ease. Wednesday night I walked out of class feeling overwhelmed after having read just the syllabi and I looked at my roommate and demanded a McDonalds’ milkshake! We walked across the street from campus to the McDonalds that sits between the KFC and Hardies. I went to buy hair products: do I want Pantene, Fructis, Dove etc? Peanut butter- Jiff or the kind from Saudi Arabia? Do I want Raisin Bran for breakfast, Activa yogurt, or an individual Quakers’ oatmeal packet? Yes, if one desires US products, all of the options are here too!

I can’t say that I honestly enjoy that, especially after living in Dakar where I didn’t see a McDonalds or Starbucks for 6 months. Yet, oddly enough, I have indulged in a McDonalds’ milkshake, a Snickers, etc. I very rarely eat any of that in the States. Perhaps this is really why the transition has gone soo smoothly...nothin’ like the power of comfort food. J

On the other hand, one other element of life in Cairo that I’m gluttonously enjoying is all of the fresh food. After living with the dictated menu of a Senegalese host family for 6 months followed by 6 weeks of breakfast, lunch, coffee, and dinner dates in the US it is absolutely wonderful to control my own diet! We’re on the tail end of peach season, I have bottle of fresh tamarind and hibiscus (bissap!!) juice in my fridge, spices assault your nose on almost every corner, and pomegranate season is on the way! Unlike in the controlled food markets of the US, the fruits and veggies here are perfectly deformed, of natural color and succulently delicious!! My good buddy John is also quite the cook and as his new sous chef I’m learning tons of new dishes that will make a very eligible Lebanese wife! yummy! It sounds like a “food blog” is necessary…stay tuned!

How to find an apt in Cairo.

There are a few ways to begin:
1a) Find a friend who "knows" somebody and can give you a lead;
1b) Start walking around the desired neighborhood and ask the bowabs (doorman/maintenence man) if there are any open apts;
1c) Pay a simsar ("realistate agent") a ridiculous fee to show you around a desired neighborhood;

2) Find a friend who speaks Arabic and can go hunting with you;
3) Learn Arabic numbers so you can locate specific buildings;
4) Walk up many flights of stairs looking for an office that one would not normally assume to find in an apt builiding, such as "Mecca Electric" (a good way to see how the building is maintained, but be careful not to pass judgement too quickly);
5) Awkwardly introduce yourself to random man who works in random office and ask if he knows of any extra apartments;
6) Of course he does so he takes you down/up the rickety elevator and opens the door to an available apt.
7) Language barriers and accents greatly diminish any confidence of the real price which changes between 2500 and 1500 every 5 minutes;
8) Ask friend to read through the contract in Arabic;
9) Tell random man that you will call him later with your decision as you walk out the door asking if yourself a million questions of what you got yourself into but proud that you got yourself safely in and out of the experience.