ahhh...shopping...

After 6 ridiculously full days of class, projects and meetings, Sunday was a much needed day of fun in the sun. Lucie, Jamie and I started our day of relaxation and exploration with a decadent pastry from the European bakery. Deeelicious! After strolling the length of the beach taking random pictures of goats and perogues (long boats) we crossed to Island Ngor. Ngor is a very affluent part of Dakar where there is a large concentration of Europeans, Americans and resort vacationers.
Not really knowing what to expect of the island we just wandered. The sun was strong but not overwhelming. The ocean waves were rolling and once past all the tourists, the island was beautiful. (We’re not really tourists, by the way, because we ‘live’ here—it’s a pride thing for exchange students). So, enjoying a day on a rather tropical island—there are palm trees and even a monkey-- without commitments and responsibilities what do three women do? …Go shopping!!

Shopping in foreign countries can be overwhelming and in Dakar it can be a war zone! Normally you arrive to the markets and a merchant opens your taxi door already insisting you visit his/her shop. A lot of times you don’t even have to leave the taxi because anytime you stop someone is at your window telling you that you need their product. In Dakar, men sell phone cards at every corner. People escort you down the market ways showing you their portable wares: sunglasses, socks, wood carvings, bras, you name it. Simultaneously, shop keepers, or perhaps a better description is hut-keepers, sing/chant/whistle at you calling you madam, mignon (cutie), lovely lady and also try to convince you that their product is the best even though all their neighbors are selling the exact same thing. At the same, guard your purse like it’s your passport! On top of it all, everything is negotiable. Rule of thumb is that the real price is a quarter of the asked price. By the time you get through the whole Wolof greeting and the bargaining every item takes at least a 5 minutes.

Today however was different. While overlooking an ocean cliff we were approached by a local artisan with a typical basket of wares on her head. Normally, we would walk away quickly and slightly annoyed. She was jolly, friendly and surprisingly, not overly assertive. She started a conversation and we were soon digging through her basket of goodies with shrills of oohs and aahs. We sat, talked awhile and came away with beaded necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Nothing like a little retail therapy to add extra spring to our step!
On our way back to the boat Jamie spotted a small sign for a local gallery. Again not knowing what to expect, we wandered in. Unlike a normal market we were greeted by no one but a little monkey! We continued to wander through the normal paintings of all colors and sizes, carvings, drums and finally purses/bags! The owner eventually arrived to assist with our choices. Lucie and I picked up a local cloth bag, Jamie got a little traditional painting and then we all got invited to tea by the shop keeper. Porquoi pas? (why not?)
We chatted with Lu for a while about Senegal and life in general. He even invited us to come back for a weekend b-b-q!
(pic of Lu and Lucie in the gallery)
Walking away from it all we somehow always feel the need to justify our purchases. As previously stated, all prices are negotiable. We know that they are trying to rip us off because we are white. My bargaining and language capabilities are now getting to where I can get down to the real prices. However, if I was to buy a necklace in the States, it could easily cost $10USD. Should I insist on playing the rigid game to pay only $1.50 when I know this is the lady’s only income and she has five kids to feed? Rich is relative. What is our responsibility to just prices?
Also, there are so many beautiful things to be desired. Alligator purses, exotic wooden drums, and delicately crafted bracelets; however I don’t know anything about animal rights laws in Senegal, I know a lot of specialty wood is endangered, almost extinct and I just can’t wear ivory, knowing its also endangered. On the other hand, the guy is just trying to make a living, he only has access to certain resources and is trying to compete in the local market. What is our responsibility to sustainable products?
So we do pay a bit more than the locals and I have sorely denied myself beautiful local artisan jewelry. Decisions. All considered, we are ecstatic about our purchases and the fact that we could buy in a calm and personal market. It was a refreshing day in the sun and fresh air! I'm now revived and ready to take on another week...