If it weren’t for the intense heat and Ramadan’s ban of liquids, I could probably sit on the Cairo metro all day.
I can’t help but stare.
First of all, Alhumdililah that Amanda told me, cars are gender restricted. There are cars for only women. There are cars for only men and there are cars for families. At least, I think that’s how it works. Red and green above the door symbolize that women can enter. I’m not yet sure what each color really means, but I know I can enter in either red or green. The male only cars are almost always packed like sardine cans. The women only cars I can usually always find a seat. Which begs the question where are the women?
The stations are empty during prayer time, of course. Thus, this is the best travel time for me!
During almost all of my rides today a man or boy came on the female car to sell goods. He would walk once down the aisle carelessly tossing products into the women's laps as his mouth went on like a auctioneer. Then he would start the aisle again collecting money or recollecting the product. I saw a small sewing kit, band-aids, kid’s balloons, paper fans and small school supplies. I’m not sure I have to wonder if he sells these products in the men’s car.
So, besides the colors above certain car doors there is also a drop down sign for women on the platform to approximate where the “women” car will stop. I find it quite funny, however, that men pay it no attention. So, when the train stops and they see they are in front of a “women” car they scramble to their own car door. Don’t you think after living here, they would recognize the signs existence? When a man accidentally gets stuck on a “women” car there are a couple of disgruntled looks but the only time I’ve ever seen a woman say anything is w/ the door still open…I wonder what happens, (if) a woman gets stuck on a “man” car?
Today I saw a new family waiting for the train. The woman was bottle feeding the baby and the man was very attentive to both of them. As the train approached she removed the bottle, he took the baby, she took the diaper bag and they proceeded to different train cars. I wonder why they didn’t go in the ‘family’ car? Perhaps I’ve misread the existence of a ‘family’ car. I’ll have to clarify that.
What also is amazing to me is the women’s clothes. This heat in the States suggests a strapless, just above the knee, simple cotton/linen dress. However, I can’t do that here. So, today I went out in a mid-calf skirt and a linen shirt w/ ¾ length sleeves. If my sweat glands were paid over time they would be banking right now! Soaked in places I can’t even discuss. Yet, about 90% of these ladies were in full length skirts that cover their ankles, some of them heavy denim. Shirts, sometimes 2-3 layered that cover from a high neckline to their wrists. And on top of that, literally, 1-3 head scarves. Now, don’t get me wrong I’ve seen women dressed like this before but when I am, at times, the only one NOT wearing it—it hits a bit harder.
I’ve never really delved into Islamic Studies or Gender Studies but, in my un-educated-in-this-dept opinion, I can easily see how this is a form of oppression. In addition, no one can drink water from sun up to sun down (its Ramadan, the month of fasting in Islam)! No wonder the women car is empty—I’d stay home too!!
Now please don’t get me wrong, I really have nothing against Islam. In fact, I’m very intrigued by it. (Why do some women where all black and cover their faces? Why are some in all black, but expose their faces? Why are some in regular street clothes just layered so to cover all skin? Why did Senegalese women not wear the same style of clothing though they are Muslim? Why don't more men in Egypt wear the long shirt/robe, as Muslim Senegalese men do?) In all honestly, seeing all of this makes me desperate to learn Arabic and to have just the slightest hope that one day these women will open up to me so I too can see behind the veil…
...for now I will keep sweating in the metro.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Orientation and Friends!
Saturday was grad school orientation. I was excited to see the new oh so talked about campus, meet people and get this show on the road. Apparently and ironically that after moving across two continents, I was nervous, because I couldn’t fall asleep last night. Nerves? Heat? Jetlag? Who knows…
The new campus is huge and beautiful!! Literally on the desert it’s covered by a huge blue sky and surrounded by a constant grey border where desert winds meet sand. While it could easily resemble a fake backdrop in a mall photobooth, it is beautiful! When one looks past campus landscaping a grey wall appears to almost cut off the rest of the world. I’m excited to be part of it!
I’ve yet to see the ‘old’ campus in downtown Cairo. Most of my classes will be downtown while the law library, professors offices, the gym and university activity is at the New Campus. Not as convenient as I anticipated and hoped for especially w/ only AUC buses to transport us the 1-2 hour commute each way (depending on traffic). As always, we’ll make do.
For those of you who have ever moved before, especially to a foreign land with a foreign language, you can empathize with the sentiments of having to create an entirely new friends/family network. For those of you who have not moved, well, its a bit unstable. You find yourself waiting in lines, climbing stairs, craving coffee, wiping sweat next to a stranger and you realize that first impressions are a rather big deal and that you have an entirely clean slate. NO ONE knows you or where your from or what you've done etc. Its quite an exhilerating opportunity to (re)define oneself.
After finding the room of International Human Rights Law people— my new colleagues, some conversations quickly started up, other awkwardly stumbled. “So, where you from?” “where'd you do your undergrad degree” is how it usually starts and then we basically come to the conclusion that non of us have much in common except the fact that we’re alone in Cairo and looking for friends. That in and of itself is basis enough to start a “friendship” and now I can actually scroll through my cell phone contact page!! It was fun to hear where people have studied, what languages they speak, what brings them to Cairo etc. I’m excited to start a program with such a diverse group of people, with diverse travel histories, language experiences and independent goals!
The new campus is huge and beautiful!! Literally on the desert it’s covered by a huge blue sky and surrounded by a constant grey border where desert winds meet sand. While it could easily resemble a fake backdrop in a mall photobooth, it is beautiful! When one looks past campus landscaping a grey wall appears to almost cut off the rest of the world. I’m excited to be part of it!
I’ve yet to see the ‘old’ campus in downtown Cairo. Most of my classes will be downtown while the law library, professors offices, the gym and university activity is at the New Campus. Not as convenient as I anticipated and hoped for especially w/ only AUC buses to transport us the 1-2 hour commute each way (depending on traffic). As always, we’ll make do.
For those of you who have ever moved before, especially to a foreign land with a foreign language, you can empathize with the sentiments of having to create an entirely new friends/family network. For those of you who have not moved, well, its a bit unstable. You find yourself waiting in lines, climbing stairs, craving coffee, wiping sweat next to a stranger and you realize that first impressions are a rather big deal and that you have an entirely clean slate. NO ONE knows you or where your from or what you've done etc. Its quite an exhilerating opportunity to (re)define oneself.
After finding the room of International Human Rights Law people— my new colleagues, some conversations quickly started up, other awkwardly stumbled. “So, where you from?” “where'd you do your undergrad degree” is how it usually starts and then we basically come to the conclusion that non of us have much in common except the fact that we’re alone in Cairo and looking for friends. That in and of itself is basis enough to start a “friendship” and now I can actually scroll through my cell phone contact page!! It was fun to hear where people have studied, what languages they speak, what brings them to Cairo etc. I’m excited to start a program with such a diverse group of people, with diverse travel histories, language experiences and independent goals!
Moving to Egypt
So, I'm back to blogging by popular demand. I'm also back in Africa after a 6-7wk lovely stint in the States. Except this time, I'm on the other side of the continent in Cairo, Egypt.
This has been an amazingly smooth transition. Through a friend of a friend of a friend I have been soo warmly received by complete strangers! They have opened the doors to their flats, their kitchens and their knowledge of Cairo and living in Egypt. It makes everything so much incredibly easier when you have someone to help you with the little ins and outs of life!
Here are some things I've learned, felt or noticed in these first couple of days:
- I really like meeting people on long plane rides. If both parties are willing, there is really a lot to talk about when faced with only a seat back in front of you;
- You can buy a visa at the Cairo airport for $15USD. Why USD I don’t know. It’s really only a sticker. Does that mean it’s only a moneymaker?
- The neighborhood Doqqi is pronounced like, “Doh e”
- Despite the heat and symptoms of dehydration I do feel guilty drinking water in public. Is it guilt or respect?
- The streets are empty during prayer time but especially during Iftar—the breaking of the fast at sundown.
- You can find Chiles, TGIFridays, Starbucks, McDonalds, KFC and all that stuff in Cairo. It kind of disappoints me after living in Dakar w/o any of it. Though the H&M does not disappoint me!
- “shukran” means “thanks” in Arabic.
- There are separate metro cars for females which are much more empty than ‘male only’ cars.
- Despite harsh legal consequences, homosexual is not uncommon (yes, that's a double negative!);
- Respectful Muslim girls like to pole dance in private…;
- A box of Raisin Bran cost between $6-7USD;
- Egyptian beer is called Stella or Sakara and Egyptians cannot buy it during Ramadan. One must carry passport at all times;
- Its really difficult to navigate the streets of Cairo by myself when I don’t read numbers in Arabic;
- Arabic numbers are very easy to learn;
- I drank the water right away and didn’t get sick…at least I don’t think so…there goes my detox diet!;
- There are no begger kids on the streets like in Dakar;
- Traffic is crazy like in Dakar but instead of annoyed honks followed by a slew of insults in Wolof, Cairiens let out more of a ‘yooohoo, comin’ through” honk.
- While the street might have 3 painted lanes, Cairiens can fit at least 5 cars!
- I have no idea how people lived abroad without internet and cell phones!
- Peaches and figs are in season!! Ohhh soo good! Watermelon is definitely not!
- Cairiens hang skinned, headless animals in the street like in Dakar. My friend mentioned as walking down the street: “buy the meat w/ all the flies on it bc the one w/o flies is covered in RAID”
- small bills and change is once again hard to come by and I must once again start to horde;
- there is a hoodie hanging by the door to slip on when the delievery man comes bc females must always cover the shoulders;
- While a bit overwhelming, its fun to look at the different style of apts in all parts of the city and see the horrendous Egyptian style furniture!
- I’m really liking it!
This has been an amazingly smooth transition. Through a friend of a friend of a friend I have been soo warmly received by complete strangers! They have opened the doors to their flats, their kitchens and their knowledge of Cairo and living in Egypt. It makes everything so much incredibly easier when you have someone to help you with the little ins and outs of life!
Here are some things I've learned, felt or noticed in these first couple of days:
- I really like meeting people on long plane rides. If both parties are willing, there is really a lot to talk about when faced with only a seat back in front of you;
- You can buy a visa at the Cairo airport for $15USD. Why USD I don’t know. It’s really only a sticker. Does that mean it’s only a moneymaker?
- The neighborhood Doqqi is pronounced like, “Doh e”
- Despite the heat and symptoms of dehydration I do feel guilty drinking water in public. Is it guilt or respect?
- The streets are empty during prayer time but especially during Iftar—the breaking of the fast at sundown.
- You can find Chiles, TGIFridays, Starbucks, McDonalds, KFC and all that stuff in Cairo. It kind of disappoints me after living in Dakar w/o any of it. Though the H&M does not disappoint me!
- “shukran” means “thanks” in Arabic.
- There are separate metro cars for females which are much more empty than ‘male only’ cars.
- Despite harsh legal consequences, homosexual is not uncommon (yes, that's a double negative!);
- Respectful Muslim girls like to pole dance in private…;
- A box of Raisin Bran cost between $6-7USD;
- Egyptian beer is called Stella or Sakara and Egyptians cannot buy it during Ramadan. One must carry passport at all times;
- Its really difficult to navigate the streets of Cairo by myself when I don’t read numbers in Arabic;
- Arabic numbers are very easy to learn;
- I drank the water right away and didn’t get sick…at least I don’t think so…there goes my detox diet!;
- There are no begger kids on the streets like in Dakar;
- Traffic is crazy like in Dakar but instead of annoyed honks followed by a slew of insults in Wolof, Cairiens let out more of a ‘yooohoo, comin’ through” honk.
- While the street might have 3 painted lanes, Cairiens can fit at least 5 cars!
- I have no idea how people lived abroad without internet and cell phones!
- Peaches and figs are in season!! Ohhh soo good! Watermelon is definitely not!
- Cairiens hang skinned, headless animals in the street like in Dakar. My friend mentioned as walking down the street: “buy the meat w/ all the flies on it bc the one w/o flies is covered in RAID”
- small bills and change is once again hard to come by and I must once again start to horde;
- there is a hoodie hanging by the door to slip on when the delievery man comes bc females must always cover the shoulders;
- While a bit overwhelming, its fun to look at the different style of apts in all parts of the city and see the horrendous Egyptian style furniture!
- I’m really liking it!
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