Go to Togo.

I’ll never forget a family of Togolese refugees that I had the honor of working with in Chicago. Actually, I’ll never forget their laughter—and how they created a contagious chuckle that makes every part of the body jiggle with glee. This family alone was enough me make me want to go to Togo. Plus, after 3 months of living on the edge of the Sahel Desert, it was wonderful to see the green, green of Togo and to be wrapped in humidity for a week. Our main reason for going was the Rotary District Conference, but as Cultural Ambassadorial Scholars we had lots of other curiosities to squelch!
Animism is very active in Togo and many voodoo practices that currently thrive in the Caribbean and N. Brazil originated in current day Lome. So of course we had to visit the famous voodoo market in Lome. There was a very real presence in the market to which we had our distinct reactions. I, was thrilled! This was another anthropologists dream. So many questions I had! Why do some tongues stick out? Why fur on some, while other skulls are stripped? Jamie, the soon to be Dr., easily explained how dangerous it is that they crush monkey skulls to drink in a potion because the proteins are so similar to human proteins and the combination… Lucy, contemplating God’s call to be a nun, was the most guarded against the devilish presence. Cody, the male, I’m not sure what he was thinking. It was quite an experience.
Aside from the Conference we didn’t have an established program and we were open to whatever options we encountered. Cody, through his alma mater, has some connections to a Benediction Monastery in N. Togo. We also could have taken day trips to Benin and Ghana. Exercising our democratic rights we all agreed to stay in Togo. Thus Sunday morning we jumped on a bus to the northern village of Kara.
27km outside of Kara, further isolated from the world, we arrived at the magnificent Benediction Monastery; a true oasis of peace in the middle of the bush. I was definitely needing some “me time” thus was super excited for our mini retreat. The 15 resident monks very generously received us.

Unfortunately, a little Togolese bug decided to crawl through my intestines and wring them for all they’re worth. So I spent most of our time between the toilet and my bed. From our little travel health pamphlets, we think there’s a good chance it was giardiasis or “Beaver Fever.” It really wasn’t all that bad though because just across the way was the chapel from which every couple of hours the beaver was calmed by the singing of Togolese monks! I’ve never been one for chant but put an African drum beat to it—on top of a secluded mountain--- I could have stayed for days! Our last night at the monastery there was a rain storm. Once again after living in a relatively desert climate, I was thrilled to smell and feel rain!
While at the Monastery we were also able to visit local villages. Some also speak Peul, a local language in Senegal but the Pulaar (people who speak Peul) are a nomadic group who stretch across the continent. So, while my Peul greetings didn’t work, I was able to learn another dialect of Peul. One man was so excited to see us he gave us each an egg for lunch! Unfortunately I couldn’t eat, but everybody said that quail eggs are very good!
Overall, our time in Togo was great! Many times we jiggled with glee! We felt so welcomed by the people and the warm climate! It was a great change to crazy, cluttered life of Dakar. Here are some random things I learned about Togo: (photo: There were bilboards everywhere advocating abstinance. Togo has a relatively low HIV/AIDS rate, but its still prevelent. There are no such billboards in Senegal.)
-Togo is technically a democratic country but the fact that the same family has been in power for over 40 years tells a different reality.
-The last “President” has approximately 100 kids between his 47 wives. I thought the Muslim polygamy rule of 4 wives was a lot but apparently in Togo a man can have as many as he can financially support. He was in office for 30 years before his youngest son took over 10 years ago. The Sunday before we left for Togo another son attempted to kill the current President. Brother is in jail. We didn’t notice any unrest—thank the Lord!
-Mina and Ewe are the dominant local languages. French is the official language.
-Togo was controlled by Germans until after the 1st World War when France and England redrew the national boundaries. Many locals still refer to a large part of Ghana as ”Togo Britanique”
-Togo is a Christian country, though it’s mostly animist.
-The streets are full of moto taxis which apparently emerged after the economic crisis of 1994.
-Many men have clear-cut scars on their face. This is done as a right of passage and each clan, or local group, has a distinct marking.

(Photo: local gas station and this one has oil too!)