Family: Goree and Guacamole

As mentioned in my previous blog, my goal for my last couple of weeks in Senegal is to dive into life in Dakar. The first target: my host family!

Of course in this predominantly Muslim country, last Thursday, the Catholic Holiday of the Ascension, was a national holiday that cancelled all formal activity. It was a perfect day to take the lil’ host brothers to Goree Island, a small island not 3km from Dakar that stands as a symbol of the Atlantic slave trade. It apparently was discovered by the Portuguese around 1444 and was passed through the possession of the Dutch, British, and French before finally returning to Senegal with Senegalese independence in 1960. Due to its small physical size, only a small percentage of the millions of slaves from W. Africa actually passed through the island. It was mostly used as a commercial trading point nonetheless, it plays a significant role in the representation of this dark period of history.

Ok, so I try to ensure that I have smart little brothers, but it was also a holiday—enough of the academic stuff! Mustafa, Mame Moussa, Lucy and I took the 20 minute ferry to this “Island of No Return.” We started the perfectly sunny day at the Women’s Museum. After which I, of course, showed my lil’ brothers what it really means to have a sister, as they had to sit and wait for me to buy local jewelry! Lots of beads! After lunch of a long promised pizza, we visited the Maison des esclaves (Slave House). The most frequently visited tourist attraction is divided into holding chambers for men, women and children, which served as a last residence before they were shipped overseas. The described grim conditions gave any eerie sense to an otherwise beautiful day. We then explored the petit island a bit more before heading back to mainland. Great day of family bonding and fun in the sun!

When one resides with a host family, it’s pretty much required to cook a ‘meal from home.’ Well, I’m not about to perpetuate this whole American Hamburger thing, so, considering available ingredients, next on the list was tacos! Cilantro is impossible to find here so I can’t say it was really “Mexican” but they loved it! At first glance at the green paste they pronounce as, “gu-ca-moleh” nobody would try it. I insisted that after all the things I have put in my mouth without a single clue or question of what it might be, they must at least try… grimacing faces quickly turned to big smiles and heaping spoonfuls! They also found it quite “interesting” that I would suggest eating uncooked onions—greased up, cooked-until-nutritionally dead onions are in almost every Senegalese plate. The idea of raw veggies is quite bizarre. Even my host Dad, whos praises are more than few and far between, helped himself to second large serving! I think I successfully destroyed their notions that toubabs can’t cook!

In mention of my host Dad…we, in particular, have made quite a bit of progress this week. He is a very proud Wolof man (of Olof origin) and he insists almost everyday that I speak Wolof. Every day when I arrive home, he or one of his friends gives me a fast slew of questions in Wolof- which of course, they have no real intention of me understanding. When I politely try to ask, “ca veut dire quoi en francais?” (that means what in French) they throw their head back in laughter and start the daily chant, “She hasn’t learned anything!” While they say it in jest, its gets a bit tiring- especially on those emotionally sensitive days in the exchange process. Well, this week when he started his chant, I looked him directly in the eyes (which a young person is never to do to an elder in Wolof culture) and I proudly stated, “I have learned a lot in your beautiful country—but NOT Wolof.” He stopped, gave me a smirk and a pat on the back. I haven’t heard the chant since!

So, things with the Senegalese family are going great and I look forward to the next month together. I must also throw in that things with the American family are also great as another nephew was born this week! Bienvenue, Luke James et felicitations a Tom et Melissa!!!