The Metro

If it weren’t for the intense heat and Ramadan’s ban of liquids, I could probably sit on the Cairo metro all day.

I can’t help but stare.

First of all, Alhumdililah that Amanda told me, cars are gender restricted. There are cars for only women. There are cars for only men and there are cars for families. At least, I think that’s how it works. Red and green above the door symbolize that women can enter. I’m not yet sure what each color really means, but I know I can enter in either red or green. The male only cars are almost always packed like sardine cans. The women only cars I can usually always find a seat. Which begs the question where are the women?

The stations are empty during prayer time, of course. Thus, this is the best travel time for me!

During almost all of my rides today a man or boy came on the female car to sell goods. He would walk once down the aisle carelessly tossing products into the women's laps as his mouth went on like a auctioneer. Then he would start the aisle again collecting money or recollecting the product. I saw a small sewing kit, band-aids, kid’s balloons, paper fans and small school supplies. I’m not sure I have to wonder if he sells these products in the men’s car.

So, besides the colors above certain car doors there is also a drop down sign for women on the platform to approximate where the “women” car will stop. I find it quite funny, however, that men pay it no attention. So, when the train stops and they see they are in front of a “women” car they scramble to their own car door. Don’t you think after living here, they would recognize the signs existence? When a man accidentally gets stuck on a “women” car there are a couple of disgruntled looks but the only time I’ve ever seen a woman say anything is w/ the door still open…I wonder what happens, (if) a woman gets stuck on a “man” car?


Today I saw a new family waiting for the train. The woman was bottle feeding the baby and the man was very attentive to both of them. As the train approached she removed the bottle, he took the baby, she took the diaper bag and they proceeded to different train cars. I wonder why they didn’t go in the ‘family’ car? Perhaps I’ve misread the existence of a ‘family’ car. I’ll have to clarify that.

What also is amazing to me is the women’s clothes. This heat in the States suggests a strapless, just above the knee, simple cotton/linen dress. However, I can’t do that here. So, today I went out in a mid-calf skirt and a linen shirt w/ ¾ length sleeves. If my sweat glands were paid over time they would be banking right now! Soaked in places I can’t even discuss. Yet, about 90% of these ladies were in full length skirts that cover their ankles, some of them heavy denim. Shirts, sometimes 2-3 layered that cover from a high neckline to their wrists. And on top of that, literally, 1-3 head scarves. Now, don’t get me wrong I’ve seen women dressed like this before but when I am, at times, the only one NOT wearing it—it hits a bit harder.
I’ve never really delved into Islamic Studies or Gender Studies but, in my un-educated-in-this-dept opinion, I can easily see how this is a form of oppression. In addition, no one can drink water from sun up to sun down (its Ramadan, the month of fasting in Islam)! No wonder the women car is empty—I’d stay home too!!
Now please don’t get me wrong, I really have nothing against Islam. In fact, I’m very intrigued by it. (Why do some women where all black and cover their faces? Why are some in all black, but expose their faces? Why are some in regular street clothes just layered so to cover all skin? Why did Senegalese women not wear the same style of clothing though they are Muslim? Why don't more men in Egypt wear the long shirt/robe, as Muslim Senegalese men do?) In all honestly, seeing all of this makes me desperate to learn Arabic and to have just the slightest hope that one day these women will open up to me so I too can see behind the veil…

...for now I will keep sweating in the metro.